Explore the whitening effects of collagen and rice peptides on melanin production and tyrosinase inhibition in skincare research and product development.

The study investigates the effects of collagen peptides, rice peptides, and their combination (collagen peptide: rice peptide = 2:1) on the inhibition of tyrosinase activity in mouse melanoma B16-F10 cells, as well as the impact on intracellular melanin content and oxidative stress. The aim is to evaluate the whitening efficacy of these two peptides. The inhibition of tyrosinase activity by these peptides and their combination was assessed using the L-DOPA oxidation method, while the NaOH lysis method was employed to measure the impact on intracellular melanin content. Flow cytometry was used to determine the effects on the production of ROS induced by AAPH, evaluating the whitening effect of the peptides from the perspectives of tyrosinase inhibition and antioxidation. The results indicate that the combination of collagen peptides and rice peptides showed a more significant inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity compared to either peptide alone, suggesting a potential in reducing melanin production and protecting cells from oxidative stress damage. This indicates that the peptide combination has a better whitening effect and exhibits synergistic action.

Keywords: collagen peptide; rice peptide; tyrosinase; melanin; oxidative stress

Human skin color is determined by the epidermis, primarily by melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanin is synthesized in melanosomes within melanocytes and transferred to keratinocytes, which move to the skin’s surface, determining the final skin color. The synthesis of melanin requires tyrosine substrate, tyrosinase enzyme, and oxygen. Tyrosinase, located on the melanosome membrane, is a rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production, catalyzing the conversion of L-tyrosine to L-DOPA and further oxidizing it to L-DOPAquinone, leading to melanin synthesis. Whitening agents typically function by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, restricting melanin transfer, accelerating the renewal of the stratum corneum to reduce melanin deposition, or eliminating free radicals necessary for melanin production.

In recent years, bioactive peptides have garnered attention for skincare applications due to their good absorption, antioxidation, anti-aging, and moisturizing effects. Studies have shown that collagen peptides can penetrate the skin, moisturize, improve skin elasticity, inhibit tyrosinase activity, eliminate free radicals, and reduce melanin production, thereby having a whitening effect. Rice peptides, known for their antioxidant functions, have been studied for their anti-aging effects on the skin and are used as cosmetic ingredients without causing irritation or allergic reactions.

This experiment utilized B16-F10 cells to assess the effects of collagen peptides and rice peptides (and their combination) on tyrosinase activity, melanin production, and antioxidative action, thereby validating their whitening and beauty-enhancing effects. This lays the experimental foundation for the application of collagen and rice peptides in product development.

The study’s methodology included using collagen and rice peptides prepared in the laboratory, with cell proliferation, tyrosinase inhibition, melanin content, and ROS production assays conducted under various conditions. The results demonstrated that both peptides and their combination were non-toxic at tested concentrations, with significant inhibition of tyrosinase activity and reduction of melanin content and ROS production in cells, especially notable in the combination group.

In conclusion, the study confirms that the combination of collagen and rice peptides exhibits superior whitening efficacy compared to individual peptides, significantly inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing ROS levels, and decreasing melanin content in cells. This synergistic effect of the peptide combination highlights its potential as an effective ingredient in whitening and skincare products, offering a scientific basis for further research and product development in this area.

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Original research by Yin Man, Wei Ying*, Ma Yong, Wang Jing, Lu Jun, Gu Ruizeng, Cai Muyi
(Beijing Protein Functional Peptide Engineering Technology Research Center, China Food and Fermentation Industry Research Institute, Beijing 100015) Article ID: DOI: 10.13684/j.cnki.spkj.2017.10.047